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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, nestled high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.